Experiencing the grandeur and beauty of Everest Base Camp is truly exhilarating. To witness the majestic peaks up close and soak in the surrounding beauty is an unforgettable experience. My husband and I began our trekking adventures later in life, following the adage “better late than never.” In 2019, we trekked to Nanga Parbat Base Camp, a 3-4 day trek at an elevation of about 4,000 meters. Our next goal was either K2 or Everest Base Camp, with Everest being slightly longer and higher. Unfortunately, the pandemic halted our plans for three years.
In October of the previous year, we completed the Rakaposhi Base Camp trek in the Karakoram Range. Our next destination was Everest Base Camp—a 10-11 day journey with acclimatization treks to around 5,000 meters. At nearly 60 years old, and my husband 71, this was a significant challenge. Fortunately, our friends Shamsuddin Shaikh and Nadeem Shaikh joined us for this adventure. After months of planning, we set off for Nepal.
The trek to Everest Base Camp, reaching an altitude of about 5,500 meters, was arduous. Starting from Lukla, a small town accessible by a half-hour flight from Manthali Airport (a 5-hour drive from Kathmandu), climbers must depart at around 1 am to catch the early morning flight. Due to our long travels and lack of rest, the initial trek from Lukla to Pakding, which took 6-7 hours, was challenging. Shams and Nadeem arrived late and had to trek in darkness, which was risky.
Arriving at Pakding, I developed a severe headache and nausea, symptoms of acute mountain sickness (AMS) similar to the onset of altitude sickness. AMS can be dangerous, leading to fatal conditions if not treated promptly. The guides recommended Diamox, a medication that prevents AMS, and by morning, I felt better.
The next day, we trekked to Namche Bazar, a 10-12 hour hike with a steep 900-meter climb, and crossed the first of eight suspension bridges over a rushing river, which was quite shaky. Our subsequent stop was Dingbouche, where we spent two nights. This leg of the trek was relatively shorter but still challenging. My husband, who wasn’t taking Diamox, showed symptoms of AMS and lost his appetite. He had to climb an additional 1,500 meters and endured several days without food. Fortunately, a blizzard subsided and sunlight peeked through, allowing us to proceed.
Despite his weakened state, my husband refused to give up. The blizzard returned, but his condition improved with the change in altitude and some celebratory singing. We completed our trek and reached Everest Base Camp, overcoming many obstacles along the way.
Standing at the base of the world’s highest mountain was awe-inspiring and made all the hardships worthwhile. The sense of accomplishment from conquering such a formidable challenge was immensely rewarding.
